Dogs pull for various reasons. But the simplest explanation is this: we keep following them, allowing them to lead us around by the leash. If we keep following, the immediate connection is this - them pulling on the leash equals person moving. Pulling on the leash is irrelevant to the size of the leash, so you get no brownie points for a dog that is pulling by your side. A dog will use the pressure on the collar to signal when you should move. You are, in essence, training them to pull you around.
One of the steps for getting a dog to stop is to teach him that pulling you will immediately make you stop walking. Patience is your friend in this. The walk will continue when there is no pressure felt on the leash or collar.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Turkey Day coming...
Dogs love turkey. But while the crackling, browned skin is tasty, it's not good for dogs because it is full of oily fats and too much of it can cause pancreatitis. Also avoid giving your dog the drumsticks. The cooked lower leg of the turkey contains many small, sharp splinter bones. Thanksgiving tragedies include pierced intestinal walls of dogs that have been given the drumstick. Cooking bones makes them brittle and breakable - which is why the wishbone breaks so easily.
Friday, October 22, 2010
Pumpkins can be a Dog's Best Friend
Highly palatable pumpkin is liked by dogs and their owners who recognize its nutritional benefits. This superfood is loaded with beta-carotene, which aids in cancer prevention, reduces inflammation and regulates Vitamin A. Vitamin C boosts basic immune functions, and the presence of Vitamin E also helps maintain healthy skin and coat.
Pumpkin is also high in fiber, which is vital to your dog's digestive health. A small amount of canned or fresh pumpkin puree is often recommended for dogs with upset stomachs and it is even known to help dogs who suffer from motion sickness. Stay away from pumpkin pie mix as it is loaded with sugar.
Pumpkin is also high in fiber, which is vital to your dog's digestive health. A small amount of canned or fresh pumpkin puree is often recommended for dogs with upset stomachs and it is even known to help dogs who suffer from motion sickness. Stay away from pumpkin pie mix as it is loaded with sugar.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
One tip on training...
Right now, almost 100% of Lily’s behavior (both good and bad) is a result of getting my attention ...or trying to get my attention.
To Lily, ANY attention is good attention.
And you can try this simple principle to identify and solve almost all bad behavior in your dog.
Let's take jumping for example.
When Lily jumps on me, I most likely say "Lily, get DOWN!" ...and then pet and praise my dog once
the jumping is finally over. And that is exactly what my dog wants.
When that happens, Lily is thinking, "AWESOME! All I have to do is jump on Mike and I get some attention... and after it's over I get my head rubbed!"
And guess what? I noticed that Lily and myself have a little pattern going on.
Every time Lily jumps on me, I most likely do the same little "ritual":
1. Scold Lily
2. Possible take my Dog's front paws and place them on the ground
3. Pet Lily once the jumping is over.
(This is how most Dog owners I know handle their situation)
So, if you do this every time your dog jumps on you, do you know what they are thinking now?
"Hey - THAT WORKS EVERY TIME!" ...And the jumping continues.
And this is why most people never have a well behaved Dog.
It's because they accidentally reward problem behavior by giving their dog attention.
Fortunately, there is a *really easy* fix for this.
There are quite a few ways you can stop jumping behavior - and I will tell you the easiest one.
When your dog starts to jump on you, turn to one side and look elsewhere. Don't speak a word -
neither positive nor negative.
Only when he/she goes back to the ground and stands on his/her four feet, look at her and say 'Good'.
So, you are ignoring their attempts to draw your attention.
And slowly, increase the time between them going back to the ground and you looking at them and saying 'Good'.
There are many other equally effective ways you can stop your dog from jumping.
And there are certain things you should NEVER do when they jump - like step backwards, sit down on your knees, etc.
You will be encouraging her bad behavior if you do that.
To Lily, ANY attention is good attention.
And you can try this simple principle to identify and solve almost all bad behavior in your dog.
Let's take jumping for example.
When Lily jumps on me, I most likely say "Lily, get DOWN!" ...and then pet and praise my dog once
the jumping is finally over. And that is exactly what my dog wants.
When that happens, Lily is thinking, "AWESOME! All I have to do is jump on Mike and I get some attention... and after it's over I get my head rubbed!"
And guess what? I noticed that Lily and myself have a little pattern going on.
Every time Lily jumps on me, I most likely do the same little "ritual":
1. Scold Lily
2. Possible take my Dog's front paws and place them on the ground
3. Pet Lily once the jumping is over.
(This is how most Dog owners I know handle their situation)
So, if you do this every time your dog jumps on you, do you know what they are thinking now?
"Hey - THAT WORKS EVERY TIME!" ...And the jumping continues.
And this is why most people never have a well behaved Dog.
It's because they accidentally reward problem behavior by giving their dog attention.
Fortunately, there is a *really easy* fix for this.
There are quite a few ways you can stop jumping behavior - and I will tell you the easiest one.
When your dog starts to jump on you, turn to one side and look elsewhere. Don't speak a word -
neither positive nor negative.
Only when he/she goes back to the ground and stands on his/her four feet, look at her and say 'Good'.
So, you are ignoring their attempts to draw your attention.
And slowly, increase the time between them going back to the ground and you looking at them and saying 'Good'.
There are many other equally effective ways you can stop your dog from jumping.
And there are certain things you should NEVER do when they jump - like step backwards, sit down on your knees, etc.
You will be encouraging her bad behavior if you do that.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
The Effects of Heat on Pets
While everyone welcome's the warmth that summer brings, one of the biggest risks your pets face during the summer is the heat. In order to prevent serious heat-related problems, it’s good to know some extra care tips your pets will need.
Pets release heat through the pads of their feet and by panting, not sweating. This makes an animal’s body much less efficient at regulating heat and body temperature than a human’s. Young puppies and kittens are also unable to regulate their own body temperature, so the hot summer months can be crucial to their health and well-being.
Heat stroke is one of the biggest concerns during the summer. This happens when the animal’s internal cooling system goes into overtime and eventually stops working, causing the body temperature to rise to the point where brain damage and other internal damage can occur. A pet’s normal temperature is 100.5-102.5º Fahrenheit, but heat stroke can cause temperatures up to 104-110º Fahrenheit, which can be deadly.
Dehydration is also a common problem during the summer. Without an adequate supply of water, pets can become dehydrated in just a few hours. Water is necessary for every body function, and just a 10% loss of body water can lead to serious illnesses.
Brachycephalic animals are dogs and cats with a shortened head and nose, such as Boxers, Shih Tzus, Persians or Himalayans. This “pushed-in” look also shortens their nostrils, trachea and other respiratory airways, which occasionally causes breathing difficulties, especially while exercising and during the hot summer months.
Signs of heat problems may include excessive panting, weakness, disorientation, fever, dizziness, excessive thirst, panting or even unconsciousness. If you notice any of these symptoms in your pet, you should move them to a shaded or air conditioned area, applying ice packs or cold towels to their head, neck and chest. If your pet is seriously affected, call your veterinarian immediately.
In order to keep your pets active during the summer months, there are a few things you should keep in mind. Make sure your pets have a continual water supply, both at home and while traveling. When they’re outside, protect them from the sun and heat with a exercise pen in a shady, well-ventilated area. Keep walks to a gentle pace, letting them run on the grass, not the hot pavement. Never leave your pets unattended in a car, especially during the heat of the day, when temperatures can reach up to 140º Fahrenheit inside vehicles.
With a little preparation, you can make sure your pets enjoy the summer months as much as your family, without having to worry about the hazardous effects of the heat!
Pets release heat through the pads of their feet and by panting, not sweating. This makes an animal’s body much less efficient at regulating heat and body temperature than a human’s. Young puppies and kittens are also unable to regulate their own body temperature, so the hot summer months can be crucial to their health and well-being.
Heat stroke is one of the biggest concerns during the summer. This happens when the animal’s internal cooling system goes into overtime and eventually stops working, causing the body temperature to rise to the point where brain damage and other internal damage can occur. A pet’s normal temperature is 100.5-102.5º Fahrenheit, but heat stroke can cause temperatures up to 104-110º Fahrenheit, which can be deadly.
Dehydration is also a common problem during the summer. Without an adequate supply of water, pets can become dehydrated in just a few hours. Water is necessary for every body function, and just a 10% loss of body water can lead to serious illnesses.
Brachycephalic animals are dogs and cats with a shortened head and nose, such as Boxers, Shih Tzus, Persians or Himalayans. This “pushed-in” look also shortens their nostrils, trachea and other respiratory airways, which occasionally causes breathing difficulties, especially while exercising and during the hot summer months.
Signs of heat problems may include excessive panting, weakness, disorientation, fever, dizziness, excessive thirst, panting or even unconsciousness. If you notice any of these symptoms in your pet, you should move them to a shaded or air conditioned area, applying ice packs or cold towels to their head, neck and chest. If your pet is seriously affected, call your veterinarian immediately.
In order to keep your pets active during the summer months, there are a few things you should keep in mind. Make sure your pets have a continual water supply, both at home and while traveling. When they’re outside, protect them from the sun and heat with a exercise pen in a shady, well-ventilated area. Keep walks to a gentle pace, letting them run on the grass, not the hot pavement. Never leave your pets unattended in a car, especially during the heat of the day, when temperatures can reach up to 140º Fahrenheit inside vehicles.
With a little preparation, you can make sure your pets enjoy the summer months as much as your family, without having to worry about the hazardous effects of the heat!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
It's time for you to take care of your Pets, Plants and Household - Perma-Guard, Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth
Perma-Guard Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth is totally organic and safe. It contains less than 1% percent of Crystal & Silicon. Some of the uses for Diatomaceous Earth include; household pets, gardens, flower beds, field crops, grain storage, and livestock feeding. Diatomaceous Earth is Mother Nature's product with no harm to the environment, pets or to people. Diatomaceous Earth is not an earth, it is the fossilized remains of microscopic shells created by one celled plants called DIATOMS. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action, not chemical, by puncturing the insect’s exoskeleton and absorbing its body fluids, thus posing no harm to warm-blooded life. Moreover, on any surface, these natural pesticide products have a remarkable repellency factor. As long as it is present, insects tend to stay away, making a serious infestation unlikely. Also, the more it is used, the more an environment is created that tends to make insects feel unwelcome.
Household:
Use Diatomaceous Earth for control of roaches, silverfish, ants, bedbugs, flies, fleas, box elder bugs, scorpions, crickets, and many others. Diatomaceous Earth can be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc.
Pets:
Our best friends come in all shapes and sizes. Protect them with Diatomaceous Earth. When lightly rubbed into their coats it is very effective against fleas, ticks, lice, and other pests on pet dogs, cats, and their premises. It can also be used as an organic wormer and will kill any worms or parasites the pets may have. When using as a de-wormer mix the Diatomaceous Earth into your pets food. Mix well into kibble and wet food. Ask your vet how much for your size pet.
Cats – 1 teaspoon/day
Kittens – ½ teaspoon/ day
Dogs – 100lbs+ -2 tablespoons/ day
50 – 100 lbs – 1 tablespoon/ day
under 50lbs – 2 teaspoons/ day
Minidogs – 1 teaspoon/ day
Plants:
For control of aphids, white fly, beetles, loopers, mites, leaf hoppers, and others. Use Diatomaceous Earth inside your home, greenhouse or outdoors on fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains and grass, up to and including day of harvest. For dry application of Diatomaceous Earth use a duster and cover entire plant, apply to both top and bottom of leaf. For young plants, as little as two pounds per acre may be adequate. For larger plants, five lbs per acre is probably sufficient. Diatomaceous Earth will need reapplication after a rain. Applies best when there is dew or after a light rain. It is a long lasting, effective powder. The insects can not build up resistance.
Livestock:
All livestock, Horses, Cows, Pigs, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Chickens and others will benefit from the use of Diatomaceous Earth. It is completely safe and nontoxic. Some of the benefits are; Control of fleas and ticks, stimulates basic metabolism, converts feed better, reduces odor and moisture in barns and stalls, results in better coat and hoof condition, keeps fly larvae from developing in manure, noticeably reducing the fly population, reduces annual vet bills, controls worms and internal parasites without chemicals, better egg production, stronger eggs, and reduces overall animal stress. Diatomaceous Earth can be mixed right in with the animals feed. Cows/Horses get 1-2 oz per day, Sheep/Goats/Hogs get 1/2 oz per day, For Chickens and other livestock you need to weight the feed and add 2% of that weight in Diatomaceous Earth. Your livestock will also get the benefit of over 14 trace minerals that make up Diatomaceous Earth.
Stored Grain:
Just add 7-10 lbs. of Diatomaceous Earth to each ton of grain as it is conveyed into the storage. When added to grain, Diatomaceous Earth killed the bugs that were present, and protected the grain from further invasions.
Bugs could not become immune and they were killed by physical action, not chemical.
When using diatomaceous earth regularly and/or in large amounts, wear a dust mask, gloves and a good set of goggles.
PET & ANIMAL POWDER
Your best friends come in all shapes and sizes. Protect them with Perma-Guard! Effective against fleas, ticks, lice, and other pests on pet dogs, cats, their premises, and other warm-blooded animals subject to these parasites.
Perma-Guard D-20 Pet & Animal product is licensed to be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc. It can be applied as a dry dust, or mixed with water at the rate of 2 oz. per quart and sprayed as a liquid.
When applying anything to your pet’s skin or your own for that matter, it’s always a good idea to try just a little in one area first, to make sure there’s no adverse reaction to the product, be it a hand cream, powder, shampoo or soap. No matter how natural something is, everyone is different and can have allergic or just adverse reactions to things.
Dry Application
1.Cover the affected area with Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder at the rate of 8 oz. to 16 oz. per 1,000 sq. ft.
Fleas, Ticks, and Lice
1.Lightly work the material into the hair of the animal. Use brush or comb to work the material down to the skin. Pay strict attention to places where the animal cannot reach, such as the scalp. Dust the ears of the animal with care. Dust the animal's bedding and areas where the animal sleeps, as well as cracks and crevices adjacent to them. Repeat once a month or as necessary. Individual ticks observed on the animal should be dusted thoroughly.
Premise Application
1.For animals confined to a specific area infested with fleas and ticks, dust the entire area with Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder.
Large Application Areas
1.Use any hand application designed for the purpose of discharging powder. If using a small lawn fertilizer spreader, mix equal parts of dry sand with Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder for even flow. Dust thoroughly the first time and then periodically reapply as needed.
Wet Application
1.Mix with water at the rate of 2 oz. per quart of water (one oz. is about 8 level teaspoons). To help keep it in suspension, add one teaspoon of mild detergent and agitate the sprayer now and then while applying.
Re-infestation
1.Prevent re-infestation by keeping Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder in the pet or animal's coat as a repellent.
Special Notes: This stuff works very well and is non-toxic. However, it is a mineral dust and it’s not something you want to breath in on a constant basis or in large amounts. Once you think you have the problem under control, you can vacuum up the dust and dead insects and throw away the bag or empty the canister of the vacuum cleaner. It’ll clean out the vacuum cleaner too!
If you have a cronic problem with fleas, ticks and other pests, you can apply this material in a more permanent manner by doing the following. Apply it to the sills of the building and around the perimeter of the building, where people and animals don’t go that often. These are entry areas for the bugs. They can live in the basement in cracks in the slab and in the sill area undisturbed. Diatomaceous Earth will make these areas uninhabitable over the long term.
You can drill holes in the walls of your house or building using a small drill bit and apply the Diatomaceous Earth, through the hole using a puffer bottle. Then, putty or spackle up the hole so the stuff is in there for good, killing any bug that tries to lay eggs or live in there.
Applying the Diatomaceous Earth by these methods will give you permanent protection and help keep the dust level down in the house and reduce undesireable, cronic, long term exposure.
Fire Ant Treatment
Perma-Guard Household, Commercial or D-20 labels have information for treating fire ant- hills and beds. With different labels, the formulas all contain the main mechanical ingredient food grade Diatomaceous Earth. The D-20 formula was an added insecticide, Pyrethrin, a vegetable, digestible extract made from Chrysanthemum flowers and & Piperonyl Butoxide, a natural catalyst made from the Sassafras plant, used to enhance the effect of Pyrethrin and in so doing, reducing the amount of Pyrethrin in the product by as much as 90%. The products can be used as both a dry powder or mixed with water and a little detergent.
As a dry powder: Taking care not to be bitten, stir the surface of the nest. The ants will boil out by the hundreds. Liberally sprinkle the surface with the Perma-Guard. Every ant on the ground will be dead within fifteen minutes. This may or may not get the queen. If the ants resurface repeat the process. Come back in a little while to try to get more ants out of the nest if any survive.
As a wet mix powder: Mix 4 tablespoons of any Diatomaceous Earth with 1 tablespoon mild detergent and one gallon of water. Wet the ground with the mixture, in a circle around the nest and spiral towards the center. Poor slowly allowing it to saturate the soil and soak into the nest. The detergent allows the product to penetrate the nest better than with water alone. Repeat if necessary.
Treat with a pressure probe: Using the same mixture using a pressure probe or pump sprayer to inject the mixture into the ground. The purpose is to fill every chamber in the nest. Do this quickly so the workers won't have a chance to move the queen(s).
A pressure washer is also very effective at getting the product into even the hardest of grounds.
The stream should be directed at intervals 18 inches around the center of the nest. Shooting at an angle towards the center of the nest 3 or 4 feet under ground will saturate the whole colony. Be sure to wear goggles for safety when using a power washer or sprayer.
The treatment can be repeated if necessary but extermination is almost assured, and the ants will not return. After all, the whole area above and below ground is saturated with Diatomaceous Earth. This is deadly to all ants but is particularly effective against fire ants. It is nice to know that ants and other insect pests can be controlled without the use of expensive and dangerous chemicals.
Wet or Dry? Sometimes it is simply quicker and easier to dust the powder around on the ground. In other situations the spray can get into cracks and seep into underground cavities. When mixing with water is is important to remember that the Diatomaceous Earth doesn't dissolve, so agitation is necessary for even distribution. In order to keep the product in suspension it is helpful to add 1 tablespoon of mild detergent per gallon. This also helps to carry the product into cracks that water alone won't take it.
Your success using either the Fossil shell flour or the D-20 products will depend on your commitment to the process. Since DE is not a chemical the insects have to come in contact with the product for it to be effective. This means you will have to keep the product down and reapply as often as necessary until the problem you have is under control.
Also, a resolution of whatever it was that created the problem initially will have to be in order. Keeping carpets and furniture clean regularly is a must. If you’re using it for things like lice then the source will have to be identified and fixed or avoided some how.
Certain insects like ants, fleas, carpenter ants and termites can breed in the soil, outside and you should seriously consider buyiung and applying nematodes, available from us, to treat the out door areas as well to get at the source of the problem and do a complete job of irradication and stay with the program until the entire problem is addressed from the ground up-litterally.
Household:
Use Diatomaceous Earth for control of roaches, silverfish, ants, bedbugs, flies, fleas, box elder bugs, scorpions, crickets, and many others. Diatomaceous Earth can be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc.
Pets:
Our best friends come in all shapes and sizes. Protect them with Diatomaceous Earth. When lightly rubbed into their coats it is very effective against fleas, ticks, lice, and other pests on pet dogs, cats, and their premises. It can also be used as an organic wormer and will kill any worms or parasites the pets may have. When using as a de-wormer mix the Diatomaceous Earth into your pets food. Mix well into kibble and wet food. Ask your vet how much for your size pet.
Cats – 1 teaspoon/day
Kittens – ½ teaspoon/ day
Dogs – 100lbs+ -2 tablespoons/ day
50 – 100 lbs – 1 tablespoon/ day
under 50lbs – 2 teaspoons/ day
Minidogs – 1 teaspoon/ day
Plants:
For control of aphids, white fly, beetles, loopers, mites, leaf hoppers, and others. Use Diatomaceous Earth inside your home, greenhouse or outdoors on fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains and grass, up to and including day of harvest. For dry application of Diatomaceous Earth use a duster and cover entire plant, apply to both top and bottom of leaf. For young plants, as little as two pounds per acre may be adequate. For larger plants, five lbs per acre is probably sufficient. Diatomaceous Earth will need reapplication after a rain. Applies best when there is dew or after a light rain. It is a long lasting, effective powder. The insects can not build up resistance.
Livestock:
All livestock, Horses, Cows, Pigs, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Chickens and others will benefit from the use of Diatomaceous Earth. It is completely safe and nontoxic. Some of the benefits are; Control of fleas and ticks, stimulates basic metabolism, converts feed better, reduces odor and moisture in barns and stalls, results in better coat and hoof condition, keeps fly larvae from developing in manure, noticeably reducing the fly population, reduces annual vet bills, controls worms and internal parasites without chemicals, better egg production, stronger eggs, and reduces overall animal stress. Diatomaceous Earth can be mixed right in with the animals feed. Cows/Horses get 1-2 oz per day, Sheep/Goats/Hogs get 1/2 oz per day, For Chickens and other livestock you need to weight the feed and add 2% of that weight in Diatomaceous Earth. Your livestock will also get the benefit of over 14 trace minerals that make up Diatomaceous Earth.
Stored Grain:
Just add 7-10 lbs. of Diatomaceous Earth to each ton of grain as it is conveyed into the storage. When added to grain, Diatomaceous Earth killed the bugs that were present, and protected the grain from further invasions.
Bugs could not become immune and they were killed by physical action, not chemical.
When using diatomaceous earth regularly and/or in large amounts, wear a dust mask, gloves and a good set of goggles.
PET & ANIMAL POWDER
Your best friends come in all shapes and sizes. Protect them with Perma-Guard! Effective against fleas, ticks, lice, and other pests on pet dogs, cats, their premises, and other warm-blooded animals subject to these parasites.
Perma-Guard D-20 Pet & Animal product is licensed to be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc. It can be applied as a dry dust, or mixed with water at the rate of 2 oz. per quart and sprayed as a liquid.
When applying anything to your pet’s skin or your own for that matter, it’s always a good idea to try just a little in one area first, to make sure there’s no adverse reaction to the product, be it a hand cream, powder, shampoo or soap. No matter how natural something is, everyone is different and can have allergic or just adverse reactions to things.
Dry Application
1.Cover the affected area with Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder at the rate of 8 oz. to 16 oz. per 1,000 sq. ft.
Fleas, Ticks, and Lice
1.Lightly work the material into the hair of the animal. Use brush or comb to work the material down to the skin. Pay strict attention to places where the animal cannot reach, such as the scalp. Dust the ears of the animal with care. Dust the animal's bedding and areas where the animal sleeps, as well as cracks and crevices adjacent to them. Repeat once a month or as necessary. Individual ticks observed on the animal should be dusted thoroughly.
Premise Application
1.For animals confined to a specific area infested with fleas and ticks, dust the entire area with Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder.
Large Application Areas
1.Use any hand application designed for the purpose of discharging powder. If using a small lawn fertilizer spreader, mix equal parts of dry sand with Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder for even flow. Dust thoroughly the first time and then periodically reapply as needed.
Wet Application
1.Mix with water at the rate of 2 oz. per quart of water (one oz. is about 8 level teaspoons). To help keep it in suspension, add one teaspoon of mild detergent and agitate the sprayer now and then while applying.
Re-infestation
1.Prevent re-infestation by keeping Perma-Guard Pet & Animal Powder in the pet or animal's coat as a repellent.
Special Notes: This stuff works very well and is non-toxic. However, it is a mineral dust and it’s not something you want to breath in on a constant basis or in large amounts. Once you think you have the problem under control, you can vacuum up the dust and dead insects and throw away the bag or empty the canister of the vacuum cleaner. It’ll clean out the vacuum cleaner too!
If you have a cronic problem with fleas, ticks and other pests, you can apply this material in a more permanent manner by doing the following. Apply it to the sills of the building and around the perimeter of the building, where people and animals don’t go that often. These are entry areas for the bugs. They can live in the basement in cracks in the slab and in the sill area undisturbed. Diatomaceous Earth will make these areas uninhabitable over the long term.
You can drill holes in the walls of your house or building using a small drill bit and apply the Diatomaceous Earth, through the hole using a puffer bottle. Then, putty or spackle up the hole so the stuff is in there for good, killing any bug that tries to lay eggs or live in there.
Applying the Diatomaceous Earth by these methods will give you permanent protection and help keep the dust level down in the house and reduce undesireable, cronic, long term exposure.
Fire Ant Treatment
Perma-Guard Household, Commercial or D-20 labels have information for treating fire ant- hills and beds. With different labels, the formulas all contain the main mechanical ingredient food grade Diatomaceous Earth. The D-20 formula was an added insecticide, Pyrethrin, a vegetable, digestible extract made from Chrysanthemum flowers and & Piperonyl Butoxide, a natural catalyst made from the Sassafras plant, used to enhance the effect of Pyrethrin and in so doing, reducing the amount of Pyrethrin in the product by as much as 90%. The products can be used as both a dry powder or mixed with water and a little detergent.
As a dry powder: Taking care not to be bitten, stir the surface of the nest. The ants will boil out by the hundreds. Liberally sprinkle the surface with the Perma-Guard. Every ant on the ground will be dead within fifteen minutes. This may or may not get the queen. If the ants resurface repeat the process. Come back in a little while to try to get more ants out of the nest if any survive.
As a wet mix powder: Mix 4 tablespoons of any Diatomaceous Earth with 1 tablespoon mild detergent and one gallon of water. Wet the ground with the mixture, in a circle around the nest and spiral towards the center. Poor slowly allowing it to saturate the soil and soak into the nest. The detergent allows the product to penetrate the nest better than with water alone. Repeat if necessary.
Treat with a pressure probe: Using the same mixture using a pressure probe or pump sprayer to inject the mixture into the ground. The purpose is to fill every chamber in the nest. Do this quickly so the workers won't have a chance to move the queen(s).
A pressure washer is also very effective at getting the product into even the hardest of grounds.
The stream should be directed at intervals 18 inches around the center of the nest. Shooting at an angle towards the center of the nest 3 or 4 feet under ground will saturate the whole colony. Be sure to wear goggles for safety when using a power washer or sprayer.
The treatment can be repeated if necessary but extermination is almost assured, and the ants will not return. After all, the whole area above and below ground is saturated with Diatomaceous Earth. This is deadly to all ants but is particularly effective against fire ants. It is nice to know that ants and other insect pests can be controlled without the use of expensive and dangerous chemicals.
Wet or Dry? Sometimes it is simply quicker and easier to dust the powder around on the ground. In other situations the spray can get into cracks and seep into underground cavities. When mixing with water is is important to remember that the Diatomaceous Earth doesn't dissolve, so agitation is necessary for even distribution. In order to keep the product in suspension it is helpful to add 1 tablespoon of mild detergent per gallon. This also helps to carry the product into cracks that water alone won't take it.
Your success using either the Fossil shell flour or the D-20 products will depend on your commitment to the process. Since DE is not a chemical the insects have to come in contact with the product for it to be effective. This means you will have to keep the product down and reapply as often as necessary until the problem you have is under control.
Also, a resolution of whatever it was that created the problem initially will have to be in order. Keeping carpets and furniture clean regularly is a must. If you’re using it for things like lice then the source will have to be identified and fixed or avoided some how.
Certain insects like ants, fleas, carpenter ants and termites can breed in the soil, outside and you should seriously consider buyiung and applying nematodes, available from us, to treat the out door areas as well to get at the source of the problem and do a complete job of irradication and stay with the program until the entire problem is addressed from the ground up-litterally.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Recipe for one of the BEST doggy treats
Ingredients:
* 4 cups water with 1 bullion cube of chicken
* 2 eggs
* 1-2 lbs. of beef/chicken liver
* 4 cups flour mixture (I mix 2 cups Flour with 2 cups Oatmeal and 1 cup Bisquick, makes the batter a little more like a cake dough)
Directions:
I cut my liver up in a blender, add eggs, then some of the chicken water, to make my broth
Pour in to a large bowl.
Then pour the flour mixture in. Make sure you keep adding water until its a very spreadable consistency.
Heat the oven to 350'F.
Spread this mixture on baking sheets. (Note: By experimenting, I have placed aluminum foil on each sheet I use, then spray with cooking oil in a can - makes removing the treat sheet MUCH easier)
After cooling, I break/cut into manageable pieces, place in a 3 -4 freezer bag(s), and when its "TREAT" time, I put small bits in a KONG and let them have at it.
ENJOY!!!!
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